His appointment as Ann Demeulemeester‘s new Creative Director late last year, Parisian designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin Has landed at Paris Fashion Week To make his grand debut.

Entering the role with the right foot forward, Sernin wished to pay tribute to the House’s three-decade-long history by scavenging Demeulemeester’s extensive archive for inspiration. Then, by honoring the founder herself, the designer flicked through the pages of Rizzoli’s 2014 book of Demeulemeester’s past collections and pulled dozens of record looks to direct the showcase.

Simply put, the offering fell short and left something to be desired from Sernin’s directorial entrance. To begin, co-ed garments walked the runway with a homogeneous personality, presenting similar looks for men and women that wandered on the designer’s gender-fluid spectrum. For example, the first and final looks mutually arrived with floor-length silk skirts and a single feather covering models’ bare chests — one in black and the other in white. For formal wear, you can layer sheer bodysuits with strong ripples. Additional uniforms are matched with sparkling shirts tied at your waist.

Similarly, leather ensembles oozed with Ann Demeulemeester’s elegant outlook, morphing into gloved sleeves and knotted slit dresses. Sernin’s trademark topless motifs were communicated via compact slipovers and dresses, working alongside flowing faux fur coats and daring shoulder covers. While presenting a pleasant array of garments, we hope to see Sernin spread his wings next season and offer a collection that injects his own personality into Demeulemeester’s classic aesthetic.

Take a closer look at Ann Demeulemeester’s FW23 collection in the gallery above.

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